Cosmetic science – Formulation

Summary of the course

This course provides a comprehensive overview of cosmetic formulation science, focusing on the fundamental principles and practical methodologies required to design, develop, and evaluate topical cosmetic products.

 It begins by introducing the diverse range of cosmetic product forms, including emulsions (creams, lotions), gels, ointments, balms, suspensions, serums, and anhydrous systems such as oils and sticks. Emphasis is placed on understanding the physical characteristics, stability considerations, and user experience associated with each form. The course then explores the functional objectives of cosmetic formulations based on both skin type and targeted skin concerns.

Students will examine the formulation strategies for products designed to moisturize different skin types — such as oily, dry, combination, and sensitive — by selecting appropriate emollients, humectants, and occlusive agents. Furthermore, specialized formulation pathways are analyzed for addressing common skin concerns including brightening (with actives like niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives, and botanical extracts), soothing and anti-inflammatory effects (with agents such as panthenol, allantoin, and bisabolol), anti-aging (peptides, retinoids, antioxidants), as well as acne-prone and barrier-compromised skin. The course further integrates the scientific rationale behind ingredient selection, compatibility, and delivery systems.

An integral component of the course is the systematic, step-by-step process of formulation development. Students will learn how to translate a product concept into a stable and effective cosmetic system, starting from initial design brief and ingredient selection, through to prototype formulation, processing techniques, and stability testing. Core formulation principles are taught, including phase construction (oil, water, active, preservative, and fragrance phases), emulsification techniques, surfactant and rheology modifier selection, pH adjustment, and preservation systems suitable for both aqueous and anhydrous bases. Throughout the course, attention is paid to regulatory, safety, and efficacy aspects, ensuring that formulations meet industry standards and consumer expectations